How to follow a trick like Pledge and toll? In this Brooklyn chophouse, three partners pulled a famous but closed restaurant out of dormancy, then slumped it a year behind Covid to become one of the critical and popular culinary hits of 2021.
For the team’s next act, the Sunken Harbor Club, tucked away in a cozy room on the second floor of the Gage Building at 372 Fulton Street, will open on November 13.
Like Gage himself, the Sunken Harbor Club is somewhat of a phoenix from the ashes affair. The club began in 2013 as a tiki pop-up, held every Thursday night at Fort Defiance, the Red Hook bar and restaurant owned by St. John Frizell, one of the partners who relaunched Gage. When work on Gage & Tollner began, the partners decided to give the Sunken Harbor Club a permanent home. The dark wood-clad space, designed by another Gage partner, Ben Schneider, resembles the hull of a ship and is decorated with mounted fish and glass fishing floats.
The eclectic cocktail list will include classic cocktails such as Mai Tai and El Presidente, and drinks like the Pan American Clipper and Remember the Maine which are taken from the work of Charles H. Baker Jr., a mid-20th century cocktail writer whose work is a particular obsession with Mr. Frizell. There will also be several original versions of classic cocktail formulas, like the Singapore Burrapeg, which replicates the flavors of a Singapore Sling in the form of a champagne cocktail; and the Pont des Soupirs, which crosses a Jungle Bird (rum, Campari, juice) with a Black Magic (rum, coffee, juice).
“People don’t give tropical drinks enough credit for the variety of styles,” said Garret Richard, who holds the title of Cocktail Manager at the Sunken Harbor Club, and who will be bar alongside Stephen Bielawski, the bartender. chief. “They think these are just shaved ice drinks.”
There will also be a separate menu, which will include shrimp chips and salt cod fritters.
Sunken Harbor will not take reservations for its approximately 30 seats. Mr Frizell expects people there for a drink before dinner at the Gage, while others may head for a nightcap. (The bar will be hours later than the restaurant, closing at midnight.) Others can still bypass Gage entirely in favor of a night at the Sunken Harbor Club.
While the first permanent Sunken Harbor Club must make an effort for its maritime effect, the next will not have to worry about it. A second Sunken Harbor Club will open at Cambridge Beaches Resort in Bermuda in January.